·        Hold a blade in your right hand with the mounting holes on the left side bottom.  The curve of the blade will follow the curve of your fingers in your right hand.
Flip the hub until the bolt holes on the top arm of the hub are on the left side. The TLG logo will be facing you. 

·        The blade will sit on the front side of the hub.  Make sure the straight part of the blade is running flush down the hub.  The holes should line up and leave over half of the hub arm behind the blade for support.  
You should NOT be able to see any of the hub arm behind the blade if you have it on correctly.  See pictures below.

·        On the AL & MM series place a flat washer on a bolt, and press it through the hole in the front/face side of the blade. 

·        Press the bolt that is now out the backside of the blade through the matching hole in the hub.

·        Place a washer on the bolt (it should be against the steel hub) then put a nut on. 

See figure A1 and A2 below for examples.

 Continue with this process until all the hardware is installed.

 DO NOT over tighten and smash the Aluminum on the AL & MM series.  Nice and snug is all that is required.  I use a 7/16" nut driver to tighten mine.

The entire TLG rotor line is made of Aluminum blades. 
You can polish and wax them,  If you want the polished look make them as shinny as you want, then clear coat them with a nice coat of clear paint.  The blades are made of a high grade aluminum and it takes a long time (many years) before they will even start to tarnish, but if you clear coat them they will stay looking new for a long time.

If you want to be creative with your blades feel free to paint them up any way you want to.  By the way I would love to see some really cool paint jobs.

We suggest you at least clear coat the blades to keep them from oxidizing.  Oxidizing is that gray yucky dead look that Aluminum can get when it is not protected from the elements.  However the AL series of blades have been out for more than 3 years and most people are saying they still look new, but oxidation will happen sometime along the way if they are left bare.
They're too pretty to let them get that way.
 

Balancing the Prop
Not required on the AL or MM series.

Bench top

Place the prop upside-down on a smooth round object that will not go through the ½” inch hole; but still allows the hub to rest on the ½” hole (not on the blades).  A pinball setting on a piece of pipe works well.

If the blades pull down on one side or the other add a larger ¼” flat washer to the side that rose up.  Continue with this process until the blades do not try to slide off the object they are resting on.  A slight tilt will not have that much effect on blades.

Balancing the Prop
Not required on the AL or MM series.

On a smooth turning ½” shaft

Bolt the hub onto your shaft.

Slowly turn the blades and allow them to fall to the heavy side.  (Example; if you push the blade slightly CW and it moves back CCW on its own, the blade that is heavy is on the bottom.

Add weight to the top arm of the hub and then turn the blade ¼ of a turn and see if it is balanced or if it still needs more weight.  If it sits still it is balanced.

NOTE: you must try the blade with each of the blades starting at 10 or 2 (O-clock).  If they sit still in each position the blade is balanced.

NOTE:   For the sake of safety, please use an arbor that the blades will rotate in the direction to tighten the arbor nut.    Meaning if your turbine is an upwind and your blades turn CW the nut should also tighten CW as well.  A CW blade on a downwind machine would need CCW threads on the arbor.  This will keep the wind from unscrewing your arbor nut and the rotor  from flying off.

Below is a 3-blade clockwise rotation on an “upwind” unit.
You are looking at the front of the blades as the wind would hit them.

 If your blades are not assembled like in the pictures below DO NOT fly them.

A1

Below is a 4-blade clockwise rotation on an “upwind” unit.
You are looking at the front of the blades as the wind would hit them.

A2